Day 52-53 Dec 5-6, 178 miles to Clearwater Beach Muncipal Marina, Clearwater Beach FL

Today is "D" Day....the day we depart Carrabelle and cross the Gulf of Mexico.  Our friends from Pier 11 (Green Turtle Bay Marina) will arrive this afternoon and be ready to make the crossing with us.  The REASON you cross at night is it takes you many hours and you need to arrive after the sun comes up so you can see the "crab pots" some 20 miles offshore.  If you run over a crab pot it can shut you down if the line wraps around your prop......Seatow...Seatow...where are you?????

C-Quarters Marina

Cindy from Bucket List calls and says three looper boats are leaving earlier because there is a front in New Orleans moving to the Mobile Bay area and could be in the Gulf Thursday afternoon.  The dock master, Buddy, at Moorings Marina has advised them to leave as it will take them around 22 hours to cross at 7 mph to Tarpon Springs.

Bucket List

Rik and I walk over to the Moorings Marina to visit with Buddy.  He is known as "The Weather Man" of the Gulf.  There are two fronts which he shows us on the computer.....the one from New Orleans...expected late Thursday... and one from South Florida expected sometime Friday morning.  He advised us to move up our departure time and cross today leaving on High Tide.  We will be OK......he showed us a route that will avoid the current running in the Gulf so we will have a smooth ride across the gulf and make better time since we are headed to Clearwater Beach.  The weather could go "South" until after Christmas.

Tim, Janice and Coach arrive early afternoon  Coach will drive to Clearwater Beach.....he is the "shuttle service" and Tim and Janice will cross the Gulf with us.  This is something they want to do....we checked their temperature!!!!

We are here

 

Coach, Janice and Tim

This is the crew

At 3:45PM we are gone...High Tide is about in...wind laying down....sunshine....Saddi in her spot....Tim and Janice aboard....
We follow our bread crumbs to Red Marker #2 and go through East Pass.  We are in the Gulf of Mexico.  This is OK..... turn to the east at green #5 and cruise along the south side of Dog Island to red marker #26.  It has a flashing signal every 6 seconds.  The sun has set.

Out Sunset

 



We turn south at #26....the waves are fine....the wind is fine....this is OK....but it is dark -  no moon yet.....radar is on...chartplotter has our waypoints.......155 plus miles to Clearwater....relax and enjoy the ride....as the night went on....waves increased.....wind increased....the front from New Orleans was approaching earlier.  Saddi was looking for the "shuttle service" to Clearwater Beach and lets say we were rocking and rolling across the Gulf.  The 1-2 foot seas went to 2-3 foot seas and to 4-5 foot seas....maybe more.  Well for 10 hours we rocked and rolled.  No shrimp with sauce was served and actually we stayed on the bridge because walking around wasn't a "good" option.  We did have a Quarter Moon for part of the way.....we did see blimps on the radar.....not in our path....auto pilot was on....steered 148 degrees....you just rode it out.  Capt Rik was on target.

Short story....only story we have crossed the Gulf of Mexico.  We were not in any danger....we were just uncomfortable and as the sun was coming up we could see Clearwater Beach.

We had to clean the salt off windows to see the Sunrise

 

Clearwater Beach @ 7 miles out

 

Saddi says she could live here

 

Yes....there are crab pots....yes we dodged them...four lookouts....seas down to 1-2 foot....everyone could get off the bridge and Saddi was able to go to her "green" grass.  Save the Shrimp for later where's the coffee!!!  We come into the channel.....smooth....under the bridge....turn port to Clearwater Beach Muncipal Marina and guess what.....Coach and dock master are waiting for us.....Again we have stern docking so Saddi's platform can be put on the starboard side.  Capt Rik is doing ok after 18 hours on the water......we have some wind...ok....but no one told us about the current to go with the wind.....we finally back in.....bowlines again Julie....
"lines on" Captain"......DOCKED!!!!!
Saddi to the pet area....Coach takes Tim and Janice to the motel.....Rik washes the first layer of salt off the boat and then to bed for a couple of hours......hot showers.....boat put back to normal.....time to relax.  18 HOURS....what an experience!

Thank you Buddy from the Moorings in Carrabelle.  If we do it again we will leave from your marina with your crossing advice.  That is a given!

Thank you Tim and Janice who wanted to make the crossing.....so glad you did....it took the four of us to sort it all out but we did.

Thank you Coach for the Shuttle Service.....Saddi would have liked a ride about half way....just sorry Wendy wasn't with the group.  You know someone has to work!

Rik and Coach

 

Janice and Tim

 

Everyone is rested.....time for dinner at Crabby Bills....and I expect an early evening.  Wonder why!

Clearwater Beach Sunset



Day 51 Dec 4 27 miles to C-Quarters Marina, Carrabelle FL

9 AM departure...beautiful calm day....with SUNshine
Hug the docks going out of Scipio Creek toward Apalachicola Bay Bridge even tho it is high tide.  Finally we see the waterside of Water Street....pretty rugged.

Departure Day

 

Nice Real Estate on the water

 

Really nice .... 2 docks for friends

 

Original porch (tin) Boss Oysters

 

You can see a few "fine" homes from the water.  There are many when you drive the area.

Good Bye Apalach

 

 

Fine Homes

 



OK we have a channel to follow through Apalachicola Bay.  You can see St George Island on your starboard but stay in the channel because.....well yes....skinny waters.

Apalachicola Bay flows directly into St George Sound at the long bridge and causeway between Cat Point and St George Island.

St George Island Bridge

 

Old Bridge

There are oyster boats everywhere.  Many of these oystermen are from Eastpoint where they harvest their catch and bring it to processing houses.  Oysters are harvested from more than 7,000 acres of public oyster "bars" and 600 acres of private leased bars in Apalachicola Bay.  Public bars are divided into "winter" bars, which are harvested from October through June and "summer" bars which are harvested from July through September.

Tongers, traditionally called "oystermen", harvest the oyster today in the same manner they have for a century.  From small boats 20-23 feet long, using tongs that look somewhat like two rakes attached in scissor-style, the oystermen bring the oysters to the surface.  The oysters are brought on board and sorted on a culling board where they are separated by size.  We watched this today....very interesting.

You get the idea



I'll take 2 dozen

 

She is sorting

 

We follow the ICW to East Pass...RED marker #2.  This is it....this is where the ICW ends for now and this is where we go on the outside to Clearwater Beach.

RED marker #2



But, today we are headed to Carrabelle.  We follow the channel carefully as we are at low-tide.  C-Quarters Marina...a AGLCA sponsor...

Stay in the Channel

 

We fuel up and back into our dock....using a bowline knot Julie.  Our problem is....still low tide...still can't get Saddi off the boat due to short fingers on the starboard side only...glad she has the green grass.

C-Quarters is a marina where the locals hang out...cooler just inside the door.  Rik goes to the office to take care of business....Saddi looks at "all" the dogs w/o leads and she is vocal about this....I'm just thinking...."the wife says ....go on honey....take your truck...go to C-Quarters...tell your fishing tales...come home at sunset".....We'll see if I'm right.  Anyway Rik is still on dock with the "guys".....he's bought a 12-pack to share....I heard one say...."Green Turtle Bay....where's that"......"don't leave Rik we have beer here".....we'll see

Rik with the boys

Yes, at sunset the trucks pull out of the parking lot....get out of the way and the porch shut down.

We stayed at Carrabelle Beach RV Resort last year and looked over the area....there isn't much here...  They do have a IGA supermarket and "the world's smallest police station."  It consists of a phone booth!!!!  And, Rik has an ACE Hardware.

Police Station

High Tide so Saddi is off the boat and we walk....still finding lots of loose dogs roaming around...and you know what Saddi thinks of dogs getting in her face....  Guess they do not have a leash law.  Dinner on the boat (homemade Chicken Pot Pies) and the sunset.

Carrabelle Sunset

 

When we leave Carrabelle we leave "Flordia's Forgotten Coast"....some of the state's most magnificent waters.....white sand...no high-rise condos and busy highways....and... busy waterways....and great people.  Everyone has been friendly, helpful and yes....the best oysters...ever!!!! I mean that Randy and Martha.

Day 49-50 Dec 2-3 Scipio Creek Marina Apalachicola FL

We have lots of pink/blue jobs to complete while we are in Apalach.  Rik needs to change the Racor fuel filters and I need to stow "stuff" on the aft deck and bridge.  Papa Joe's is closed on Sunday so it is quiet around the marina.

Best oysters in town

 

 

Local coming into the marina

 

Apalachicola or "Apalach", as it is known by locals, is far from a typical tourist town.  Established in 1831, it was once the third largest port on the Gulf of Mexico.  Shipping cotton was Apalachicola's big industry.  Steamboats laden with cotton came down the River and were unloaded.  (Remember how they were loaded on the river?)  Then small shallow-draft schooners shuttled the cargo to ships moored off shore.  As the railroads expanded and with the great cypress forests in the area, big lumber mills developed in the late 1800s.  By the end of the 19th century, harvesting oysters and seafood became an important industry.
Today Franklin County harvests more than 90% of Florida's oysters and 10% of the oysters consumed in the nation.  Shrimp, blue crab and finfish are also very important commercially, bringing in over $14 million worth of seafood to Franklin County docks annually.
Apalach has more than 900 historic homes, buildings and sites listed in its extensive National Register District -- some dating from the 1830s.  Wide, tree-lined streets are proudly graced by picturesque homes that give you a glimpse of the wealth and craftsmanship that existed in the 18th and 19th centuries.

We are 4 blocks from downtown so we walked to breakfast at Caroline's River Dining....the ONLY place open for breakfast this Monday morning.  It was fine dining and very good.  We saw our friends on the Mainship from KY leaving.  See you in Carrabelle.

Loopers from KY

 

Jim and Claire can relate to Apalachicola River Inn and Caroline's River Dining....maybe even the bar upstairs.

 

With a River View from every room

 

We walked home via Water Street.  Boss Oyster was our very first stop....many years ago....we had to walk thru the kitchen to get to an open-air porch where they served oysters, etc.  When the waitress picked up your empty tray she just dumped the shells over the porch rail and filled it up again.  Of course today it has higher standards.





Boss Oyster

 

Orman House

 

Memorial Park

 

Raney House Museum

 

 

We walked back to the downtown area Monday evening....thinking...dinner at the Owl Cafe but they were closed for remodeling......in fact everything was closed on Monday evening.  Stopped at the Gibson Inn...closed for a private party....thought of joining it....Caroline's Fine Dining was open but the parking lot was vacant so we are thinking Papa Joe's...but we had oysters for lunch....bologona

we're thinking but we were saved...Tap Room was open....know they have beer and wine....what else....good ole cheeseburger...

These were the only Christmas lights we found.

 

Christmas is coming in Apalach

 

Nice walk back to our marina....walked Saddi and gave her the rest of the burgers....she's happy.  Tomorrow we leave for Carrabelle.  Tim, Janice and Coach are coming in from Green Turtle Bay Marina to make the crossing with us.  Time to get to C-Quarters and talk "crossing" with the locals.

 

 

 



Day 48 Dec 1, 31 miles to Scipio Creek Marina, Apalachicola FL

10 AM departure....nice....SUNNY.....light breeze....
Nanseann departs Port St Joe traveling the ICW to Apalachicola Bay....our old stomping grounds

We follow our breadcrumbs back to Gulf County Canal.  It is low-tide so you can see the "skinny" waters.  We did good coming in.....Back up the canal where you see derelict boats damaged in Hurricane Issac and left to rot.

Stay in the middle of the markers

 

 

Real Estate with a washer on the front porch

 

 

a Ferry from Ft Lauderdale

 

 

The bridge parking lot, which we first thought was a bass boat tournament, was really White City.  I thought I was going to see a small town on the waterway.

White City

 

Where are the alligators

 

The waterway is starting to look like a swamp.  Where are the alligators?  We are on Searcy Creek which winds around to Lake Wimico.  As we are making a bend we see "white" water coming around the side....well what is this????  Well yes...a boat coming at us at full throttle....well yes... a delivery boat that doesn't want to smell the roses.  He does slow down for us and then guns it again.  Little does he know there are alot of fishermen on the waterway today.

The fisherman will get him

Lake Wimico is 5 miles across with a marked channel thru the middle of it.  Green on starboard because we are on the ICW.

Lake Wimico

We enter Jackson River at SM340 with some chop.  The river was named for Stonewall Jackson when he was governor of the territory.  When we reach red marker 30 we are now on the Apalachicola River and are starting to see more signs of civilization......more chop...more wind....

How many miles to a grocery store

 

Railroad Bridge is open

 

We can see the Apalachicola Bay Bridge several miles away.....which brings memories back to us.  We have been coming to Apalachicola for years to eat oysters and enjoy the area.  I don't know how many times we have driven across the bridge....too many to count.

We are about here

We do know that you need to watch your markers and you do not cut any corners....if you do Sea Tow will be pulling you off a sand bar.  We reach marker green/red 4...now we can turn back into Scipio Creek to the marina....home of Papa Joe's and some of the best oysters in town.

Scipio Creek

We call the marina and tell them where we are...."Are you hugging the docks?" was the reply.  Richie, dock master, gives us a spot on the center pier.  We rate!!!!  Capt Rik brings us in starboard side and Saddi is ready for her walk.

Beth wanted to know if we ate all the oysters in town....no....we saved some for you but Yes we each have two dozens apiece with a couple of beers and watch the Alabama/Georgia ballgame at Papa Joe's.

4 hours travel time today........

A few facts...1059 miles.....averaging 8.1 mph....131 engine hours....coming up 7 weeks on the Nanseann

 

Day 41-47 Nov 24-30 Port St Joe Marina, Port St Joe FL

We spent 8 days in Port St. Joe.  We are the only Looper here but maybe someone will show up.  We had been here last year and found the town interesting and the marina very nice so....we wanted to come back.

Sunset the first evening

 

 

We took a day off and did NOTHING......except go to lunch at the Dockside Cafe which is on property.  We split a cheeseburger with fries.  Oh soooooo good.  It's been along time!  Coming back to the boat we saw this blob in the water.  What is it?????  It's a lone Manatee.  Where is the camera?

 

So cute

 

He would snort when he came up(or she)

 

 

Sun is about gone

 

Port St Joe is a nice town with the downtown district only a short walk from the marina.  Rik and I walked mainstreet, found an ACE hardware and powerball tickets.  They have bicycles at the marina that you can use so I guess ours will stay on the boat.

 

Sunrise

 

 

We have had rain....some weather is moving thru this area.  SO...we'll stay until we get a window to move on to Apalachicola.  Making calls as to where we want to stay so we can eat oysters and stay until we get a window to cross the gulf. 

 

Cloudy Sunset...something is coming like rain

 

St Joseph Bay is partially isolated from the Gulf of Mexico by St Joseph Peninsula, which extends from Cape San Blas in the south to St Joseph Point in the north.  It is the only body of water in the eastern Gulf of Mexico not influenced by the inflow of fresh water.

St Joseph Bay is designated a Florida Aquatic Preserve.  There are lots of bottlenose dolphins in the area.  All dolphins are porpoises but you know that.  Hope we see more when we leave.

 

The loggerhead sea turtle come into this area to lay their ping-pong sized eggs in a sandy nest.  They cover them with sand and return to sea.  After a two-month incubation period, the tiny hatchlings emerge from the sand and scramble to the Gulf.  The sea turtles count on the light of the moon and stars to guide them to sea.  And...the "turtle" groups make sure the "human" lights are off.  This process ends in November.

 

Scallop season is from July thru September.  Scalloping is relatively easy for beginners.  You need a saltwater fishing license and a mandatory dive flag when you snorkel over the grass beds in 2-3 foot deep water.  But cleaning them is a little harder and it takes quite a few scallops to make a meal.  OK grandaughters....you have had you lesson on the area.  Think all three of you would love it here. (But...I didn't see a Mall)

 

This is a summer destination....lots to do!!!!  Lots to see!!!!  Highly recommended and I would like to come back....plus warmer...

 

Yes I'm sleeping

 

We had dinner at Peppers Mexican Grill one evening which is 3-4 blocks from the marina.  Rik has declared....."he has walked more in Port St Joe than he has in the past year".....I believe him....

 

Lunch at Sunset Grill yesterday.....we followed the Bay Walk path around the bay....thru the park...and to the restaurant.  You would be correct if you guessed ...oysters....and the walk back to the marina helped us burn off the calories.

 

Well we did it.....Revere Liferaft arrived and Rik mounted it in its designated spot. ....  We feel safe now and have room for Saddi, us and guests. We watched the video on using the raft and wonder which one of us is big enough to push Saddi over the side into the raft....Bet we could but sure hope we don't have too.

 

Liferaft

 

Coach and Wendy loaned us a shopping cart on wheels for the trip.  It works....The clerk at Piggly Wiggly looked at me...."You must be from the marina"......labeled again

 

My wheels

 

A Looper boat arrived this afternoon.  They are on a Mainship and from KY.  Like us they head to Apalachicola tomorrow.  Like us they will head to Carrabelle and wait for the window to cross the Gulf.

 

Final Sunset in Port St Joe